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Day 31 & 32- Kyoto

10/7/2014

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I didn’t accomplish a ton of sightseeing on either of these two days due to yet another typhoon. The most exciting thing I have to offer was where I stayed and my host. I stayed with Shutaro Yamauchi. He is one of the most genuine and kind people I have ever met. I instantly liked him and his energy! It was late at night and he led me from the bus stop along a dark dirt path to his dormitory on the University of Kyoto campus. Now before I paint a vivid picture of this dormitory, let me say that I truly enjoyed the experience and appreciate the opportunity to see a snap shot of history. His dorm is called Yoshida Dormitory and is the oldest dormitory in Japan. It was originally built in 1894. I don’t think one nail has been dedicated to renovating it. It is made up of two floors and three long corridors connected by one long hall way. The showers are outside the building and reached by walking along a metal plank. The dorm is self-governed by the students and thus things are chaotic. Several students decided to share the responsibility of buying a goat and several chickens. Boy was I surprised when walking to the shower to be stopped in my tracks by a goat gnawing on some grass. He was tied directly to the plank and completely blocked my way. I decided not to shower. Many doorways have no doors and many windows have no window panes. No air conditioner or heat and most likely the wiring is a fire hazard. For you to get a more vivid picture click this link:

https://www.google.co.jp/search?q=yoshida+dormitory+kyoto&biw=1406&bih=695&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=bPMzVKKnM-r7iwLmk4GgDA&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ

For my family members who knew my grandmother, I felt like I was staying at her pond in NY but this was way more bizarre. This ramshackle building seems at odds with Japanese strict cleanliness expectations, but it whispers the remnants of a time past and provides students with very affordable housing (25 USD a month).

On day 31 we took refuge in the Kyoto National Museum and hid from the rain. I consider the museum to be a secondary site and not a must see (keep in mind I am a museum person). The first floor is dedicated to Buddhist statuary, the second to medieval Japanese artwork, and the third to ceramics and archaeological finds.

On day 32 I discovered the unfortunate truth that you need a reservation in advance for the Imperial Palace. If you go, make sure you contact the Kyoto Administration Office. It is located just around the corner from the palace and is also inside the park. So to salvage the day I headed to the most famous onsen (traditional bath house) in Kyoto. It is called the Funaoka Onsen {(075) 441-3735, Bus stop: Senbon Kuramaguchi, 82 Minami Funaoka-cho}. If you need directions, just stop at the information desk in the main station.

It was very relaxing. I did manage to make several cultural errors and was promptly scolded for each one. I have gone to traditional Turkish baths in the past and this was quite different. First you go in and sit on a plastic tub under a low faucet. Scrub yourself thoroughly. Seeing as how I have never belonged to a nudist colony, walking around naked with strangers isn’t exactly my forte. I am also slightly a germaphobe, so there was no way I was going to sit my naked butt on one of those tubs.  Thus, I just squatted until I got soap in my eye and fell over. First strike against me. After cleansing you enter any of the plethora of hot baths. There was even one that has a ton of electrical sockets in sending live current into the water. This is the only bath that has a sign in English, “If heart no work, don’t come in.” I decided my functioning heart was going to skip that bath. There was also a cold bath, a lukewarm bath, and a sauna. There was only one other foreigner and only one other woman under 55.  Strike two came when a woman aggressively tapped my shoulder and pointed to my hair. You are supposed to wear your hair up and keep it out of the water. GOT IT. Oops. Anyway, the whole thing only cost 4 dollars and 30 cents.

My other take away from my time thus far is that things are crazy expensive here. Just going one stop on a bus costs 2 dollars and 30 cents. This is a huge spike from the prices I am used to in Taipei. So think about getting an all-day pass (600- metro/ 1,200- metro and bus). Also, English is less prevalent. If you can afford it, buy a sim card when you first arrive. That way you can have access to 3G for translation.

Expect another update in two days! After Kyoto I am heading to Kanazawa.

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Day Thirty- Kyoto

10/5/2014

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I am on Japanese soil! I wasn’t sure I was going to be allowed in at first. After a several hour delay and a 2 hour flight, I found myself standing in a very sterile white room waiting to go through customs. The immigration officer initially smiled at me until he looked at my forms. He slammed them down and demanded I give him the address of my hotel. I decided trying to explain the concept of Couchsurfing wasn’t going to get me anywhere. Long story short it took three angry immigration officers angrily jabbing their fingers at my form, me gesturing to my Taiwanese visa in hopes of communicating that I planned on leaving, and 45 minutes before I was given entrance to the country. I was the last person allowed in today! The worst part of that claim to fame is that I missed the last train into Osaka. My options were to spend about 50 USD to get into the city via taxi or to sleep in the airport. So I went with option number two.

It seems that sleeping in airports and train stations is widely accepted here. An airport police officer stopped to check my passport and chatted with me a bit. He seemed content with my makeshift bed. Thus, my first night of sleep in Japan was from 1:30am-6:00am. The worst part was waking up with fresh drool on my famous and a bustling crowd of Japanese commuters on both sides of my bed.

Since I will be spending so much time in Osaka later on, I decided it was best to head straight to Kyoto. The train took about an hour and provided some nice views of traditional homes with Japanese stone gardens amongst more modern buildings. Once in Kyoto, I met up with my host Yuki.  He is a student at Doshisha University who recently took a break from school to work on a business to help refugees receive Japanese education. We had a fun day together and explored the Nisi-Honganji Temple (half built in 1760 and half in 1636), the Toji Temple, the Gion district, and the Yasaka Shrine. Both the temples were jaw dropping. I was blown away by the craftsmanship of the wood beams and how everything seemed so orderly and clean. Before entering the temple you must take off your shoes. There is something wonderful about feeling the smooth worn wood under your feet. Once you enter the temple there is a sweet almost cinnamon scent from the stray mats. The altar was very simple with a single Buddha statue. It was impossible to make out his features because he was backlit by light reflecting off the white wall behind him. All the walls were white and the only color was a bit of gold from the shrine and the chandeliers. This mixed with the rich dark wood of the pillars and ceilings provided a stark difference to the Buddhist/Taoist temples in Taiwan with their chaotic colors and plethora of deities scattered around the main hall.

The Toji Temple (founded in 796 AD!) has the tallest pagoda in Japan (54.8 m) and is a must see! The Gion district use to be the center of old Kyoto and has narrow stone streets with traditional wooden buildings flanking it.  The area has a deep geisha heritage. Geishas are professional entertainers and not prostitutes. They are skilled at singing, playing musical instruments, dancing, and performing tea ceremonies. There are many impersonators of course and these women give the profession its bad name. The fakes often perform at onsens (natural hot spring bath houses) and provide extra happy ending relief.  If you are lucky, you can catch a glimpse of one of the authentic geishas scurrying down the street to her next appointment. It bothered me how people tried to take pictures of them as if they were objects. Yes, they are dressed in traditional clothes and make for a great photo opportunity, but people need to be more respectful. We spent the evening strolling around the area.

The Gion district also has a famous park and several temples that are all must sees. We didn’t visit them this time around, but did get a chance to see the Yasaka Shrine. I recommend visiting it at night! The whole area is lit by lanterns and makes for some great photos. It is a Shinto shrine. Shintoism is Japan’s traditional religion and thus is made up of many local gods. The shrines are almost always red due to the belief that red wards off bad spirits.

It was a great but tiring first day! P.S. They have deep fried curry balls here. CURRY! Yes! Oh and I asked Yuki what he is most proud of Japan for and he said for its cleanliness, people following rules, and its food.

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Day 24-29      Goodbye Taipei

10/4/2014

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 Over the past five days I have divided my time between saying goodbye to friends and running errands. Since I was so focused on shipping my belongings and getting things done, I didn’t really take time to emotionally say goodbye to Taiwan. It wasn’t until I stepped into the taxi and watched my friend Andrew disappear on the sidewalk that I felt the pressure build in my chest. I have left behind my home, the people that have become my Taiwanese family and friends, the feeling of belonging, and the cultural richness of Taiwan.  In some ways it has become more of a home to me than the US. Don’t get me wrong, I love my country and am rather patriotic (ask the Dutchman). It is not about something negative with the US, rather something incredibly special about Taiwan. My family will always pull me back to the US, but Taiwan in its own right has a powerful allure. Taiwan is like a safe cocoon. The people are courteous and always willing to go out of their way for you. I am not talking about a few isolated events, but every day interactions. Now that I have left, I have begun to realize the gravity of the relationships I have built over the past 2 years. Everyone from my lovely doorman to the woman who serves food at my local vegetarian buffet have left a lasting impression with me. I may not have spoken their language, nor spent large quantities of time with them, but it was obvious that we cared for one another. 

I would like to take this time to just say a heart-felt goodbye and thank you to some of the people that greatly impacted me (In no particular order).

Tzuli and Jamie:

I was recommended as a tutor to these two spunky sisters. It didn’t take long for our relationship to grow into friendship. I genuinely look at them as some of my greatest friends. It is hard to find good quality friends that you just click with, but with them it is was natural and organic. Every time I see them they make my day better. We laugh often and speak freely.

Thank you for sharing your time and hearts with me. You are both intelligent, snarky, evil (sometimes), and beautiful people. You alone will pull me back to Taiwan in the future.

Andrew:

Andrew is a top notch friend. He is truly dedicated to investing into his friendships and always offers his support. We quickly bonded over board games, movies, food, and travel. I have a deep respect for Andrew and have a hard time imagining what my time in Taiwan would have been like without him. I am excited for our friendship to continue to grow throughout our lives.

Thank you for being so fun, engaging, and downright awesome. It was so special for me to share my last 5 days in Taipei with you and your bomb-diggity family.

  Jane and her parents:

On my last day in Taiwan I met up with Jane’s father. He gave me a Buddha necklace and took me out to lunch. Before we parted ways, he asked a woman to take a photo of us. When he handed her the camera, he said that I was his American child. This really made me choke back tears. Jane’s parents gave me so many authentic cultural experiences that I would never have had without them! They are generous, caring, and excellent people.  I joke that I adopted them even if they didn’t adopt me back. In all honesty I look at them as my Taiwanese family and love them very much.

As for Jane herself, we met in a hostel in Turkey a couple months before I arrived in Taipei. I asked her where she was from and when she said Taiwan, I got so excited! From the moment I landed, Jane has been my close friend, advisor, and human form of google (hence the nickname Joogle). She is so intelligent, worldly, and fun-loving. I just wish we had had more time together in the same geographical location. Oh well, I know I shall be seeing her soon. It is inevitable that we will share our love of travel on the road at some point.

Thank you doesn’t even cut it Jane.

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Day Twenty - Three- Yilan

10/1/2014

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The first half of the day was spent exploring around Wufongci waterfall. As usual, we met a lot of really fun groups of Taiwanese tourists. I was able to get several excellent jump shots. The waterfall itself is very peaceful and serene. It is a perfect place to spend a day hiking around and taking in the natural beauty. On the way back down the hill we stopped at a popular swimming spot in the river. This is where we met the most professional group of jumpers I have met thus far. They all just recently graduated college in Taipei and were enjoying their freedom from school. They were all standing around when I approached them and they were instantly enthused to join me.

The problem we faced was getting back to the city. The bus wasn’t going to come for a few hours so I proposed finding a resort. The nice thing about resorts is that they usually have shuttle buses to train/bus stations every half hour. I confidently walked up to the front desk (looking worse for wear and a bit dingy) and inquired about the next shuttle to the train station. The woman asked for my room number and I said 26. Don’t worry, I made sure that the shuttle was free and that I wasn’t sticking someone with the bill. We boarded the shuttle along with several nicely dressed guests and the driver whisked us all down to town. Once we got off, Tim looked at me and asked, “You gave them a room number didn’t you?” Ha! Yep.

We decided to hunt for lunch before heading to the National Center for Traditional Arts (NCTA). Our options were fish, pork, pork, beef, and some more pork. As a vegetarian these options really made me miss the ease of eating in Taipei (aka vegetarian heaven). Then a small Buddha statue caught my eye. YESSSS, I had found a glorious Buddhist restaurant. Come to find out the restaurant is actually ran by the same organization that led the retreat I attended. The waitress handed us Chinese menus and we all just stared at her. Luckily, a very outgoing Buddhist venerable was sitting behind us. She came over and offered us help. She actually spent 5 years in the US completing her doctorate in philosophy and religious studies and her sister lives in Portland, Oregon. What a small world. She was so funny and excited to hear that I was from Portland. Apparently, she thinks it is one of the most beautiful places in the world (I can’t comment, since I am biased).

Once on the train heading towards the NCTA, I met two mainland Chinese tourists who were also heading there. We teamed up to figure out transit. The taxi drivers wanted way too much money, so we went in search of a bus. After getting a taste of hitchhiking I really wanted us to find someone to drive us instead of waiting 30 minutes for the bus. I met several drivers who were very friendly, but were heading towards Taipei and not the NCTA. I won’t bore you with too many details about the NCTA. Check out their website for more information.

http://www.ncfta.gov.tw/ncfta_eh/main/index.aspx

I will say it is worth the visit. Currently, they have a display of traditional Taiwanese handicrafts and an entire floor of silver sculptures. Tim’s hosts picked us up and provided us a lovely dinner. The conversation was very enjoyable and made us wish we had another day to spend with them.

Recommendations for Yilan:

-         The National Center for Traditional Arts gives an excellent introduction to traditional Taiwanese culture. It costs 150 for adult entry and 100 for students. They provide free English audio guides and have a replica of an old street in Taiwan. The building styles range from traditional Southern Fujian to Baroque and give a clear snapshot of what life would have been like in Taiwan long ago. Make sure to check out the show times and catch a traditional aboriginal dance troupe.

-         Eat seafood by the beach in the evening.

-         Hike around the Wufongci Waterfall. Continue to walk up the hill past the water fall and check out the Notre Dame Villa hike. I was told it takes about 4 hours.

-         Lanyang Museum has a very unique architectural design, but isn’t that convenient to get to. Inside you can learn about several of the aboriginal tribes of Taiwan.  

-         There are also hot springs and lakes in the area worth exploring. If only coming for a day trip, stick to the top three suggestions. 

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Day Twenty-Two- Hualien/Yilan

9/30/2014

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We had a bit of a late night last night greatly due to socializing with our fellow hostel dwellers.  We met one man from just outside of Taipei. He just finished his military service and is doing a 10 day trip around Taiwan with the goal of visiting each county. He was enthusiastic to inquire about our time in Taiwan and how we liked living here. All the other guests were a bit confused how we as English speakers had booked this hostel, since it isn’t on Hostel World or any English websites. My host from Tainan, Anne, booked it for us and did most of the communicating with the hostel owner. Another great perk of couchsurfing is that many times locals are willing to assist you with your next destination.  We all spoke for a while and then hit the hay. This morning was spent at the Wang Ji Tea House in Hualien, which I highly recommend. Try the passion fruit green tea and sweet potato fries... Yum! We took a late train to Yilan and met up with our separate couchsurfing hosts.

Tim’s was a family of five who live just outside of Yilan and mine was a man my age that lives about ten minutes from the station.  Yuche Kuo Kuo or James was at first a bit timid speaking English, but he quickly warmed up and was a delightful dinner companion. We walked through the night market, ate hot pot, visited a very hipster coffee shop (where several locals told me about how proud they are of Yilan’s artist community), and drove to a free hot spring. At the end of the evening he took me to check out his coffee shop. Mean while, Tim was given the royal treatment by his lovely hosts and even had his own floor of the house! Oh how I love couchsurfing!

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Update Coming Soon!

9/30/2014

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Check in on 10/2 for tales from Yilan and Taipei. Get ready for country number two: Japan!
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Day Twenty-One- Hualien

9/26/2014

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I will allow the photos to give you a glimpse of our experience in the gorge. It is definitely the highlight of Taiwan. The natural beauty is stunning and it is such a nice way to get away from the bigger cities.

Several people made our day unique and fun. First off we met a New Yorker named Jonathan. He had plenty of travel stories about Peru, Columbia, Japan, and Burma. He was a fun travel partner for the day and even appeased my requests for jump shots. He had with him a collapsible bike that was really impressive. We were jealous, because we were limited to waiting for the bus and he could just unfold his bike and take off to the next stop. The other person we met was Amhad (spelling? Sorry!). He is from Turkey originally, but now lives in the United Kingdom. He is a psychologist and it was fascinating discussing the education culture in Taiwan with him. Overall, today did not fit the trend of pseudo failures. All around a perfect day!

Recommendations for Taroko Gorge:

If you are facing the train station, the bus for the gorge is directly to the right. It costs 250 NTD for a jump on and jump off bus. For a one day trip through the gorge I suggest first getting off at Tianxiang. Walk 800 M up the hill. It looks like you are just walking into a tunnel, but along the wall of the tunnel there is a cave opening. This is the beginning of the Baiyang trail. This is my favorite part of the gorge. Make sure you bring a poncho or rain jacket because you will be going through a small waterfall. You should also bring a flashlight for there are several dark tunnels. After you walk back down to Tianxiang, take a half hour to check out the temple across the river.

Next take the bus to Lushui Trail. The trail takes about 30-40 minutes and leads to a cable bridge with excellent views. The next stop could be the Swallow Grotto. This isn’t necessarily a must do if you are on a time crunch. It is a rock face with many natural niches where swallows have set up shop. Stops like this are nice for taking photos, but may not be worth having to wait for the next bus.

Your last stop should be the Eternal Spring Shrine. Don’t stop at the main shrine with all the tourists. Continue to walk up the stairs all the way to the Changguang Temple. You will get some of the best views of the gorge from here. The walk is steep and takes some lung capacity, but is not long.

Many people like to get the iconic photo with the Taroko archway. I did my first time in the gorge, but didn’t feel the need to stop again.  

If you will be in the area for longer than one or two days, plan on requesting a hiking permit for the Zhuilu Old Trail at least 10 days in advance.

NOTE: You need to pack your own food. At the Tianxiang stop there are some stands selling sausage and fruit, but it is overpriced and didn’t look appetizing to me personally.
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Day Twenty- Hualien

9/25/2014

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All six surfers awoke to a large pan of mushroom omelets and Chinese pancakes. We chatted for a bit and then we all headed our separate ways. Nini left for Green Island (famous for its snorkeling and hot springs that are right on the ocean), Theo took a train to Taipei, and Sam hitchhiked north. We decided to try our hand at hitchhiking. Partially to save money and mostly because we won’t be able to in many other countries. The first car took us as far as the train station. The second driver (a University of Wisconsin Madison graduate) drove us to highway 11 with hopes that we would find a car heading to Hualien. The third car took us 3 kilometers to a 7 Eleven with shade. The fourth car drove us to a town just past Dulan. On the way he stopped and bought us lunch. At this point we were out in the middle of nowhere basically. No train station and no bus station. The fifth car took us to Chengong to find a bus station. We are talking small small small town here. The sixth driver was actually Dutch and drove us 3 meters before he got a flat tire. The seventh driver drove us two hours from Chengong to Hualien. He even delivered us directly to our hostel. Amazing! We visited a famous tea house which was actually the original birth place of this trip. In April 2013, I sat there and wrote out a rough itinerary for this adventure. In the tea shop I met a Taiwanese man named Go Go. His best friend lives in Eugene, Oregon and is a cook at Hooters. Small world- because I am from Oregon and not because of Hooters :).

 Recommendations for Hualien City:

Wang Ji Tea House

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Day Nineteen- Taitung

9/25/2014

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We woke up to breakfast on the table (Shihlung is such a wonderful host) and headed out by bike. We have decided the motto for this trip is “We tried!” Since Kaohsiung we have attempted to see many things and have epically failed. Thus is travel! Today we tried to go for a hike, only to discover that all the hiking paths are about two hours away by bike. So we decided to go to the hot springs in Chihpen instead. Another host had sent me a message saying she couldn’t host me, but she could give me free tickets to the Royal Hotel’s hot springs. AWESOME. Chihpen is one train stop away from Taitung. At the station we had two options take a really slow and infrequent bus or take an expensive taxi. I decided to make an option three. I approached a young man who was assisting his grandmother out of a car. I inquired about a bus and sure enough he offered to drive us. Taiwanese people ROCK. Jeff is pictured above. The ride to the hotel was surprisingly long, but meandered along a river and was quite breathtaking. I confidently approached the front desk and informed them that my friend named Tabby lived in the hotel and had left tickets for the hot spring with the administrator. The man asked me for her Chinese name and of course I couldn’t give it to him. He asked for her room number… nope. Cell phone number… nope. Email address… nope. So I showed him her picture and told him that she is a teacher. That is all I know! After a while I pulled up my Couchsurfing messages to find a new one from Tabby. Only to discover that she needed me to confirm an exact time of arrival and that she would then leave the tickets at another hotel. With this discovery I felt a bit ridiculous. The Royal Hotel’s staff kindly drove us to Tabby’s hotel just to check if she had left them. Nope. Oh well, we tried.

The Royal Hotel is one of the older and more famous hotels in the region. It is built up on a hill and has sweeping views of the forested hillsides. With the mist rolling off the trees the area felt very tranquil. We paid 350 for the hot springs and had a great time relaxing.

Back at Shihlong’s house we were greeted by three additional couchsurfers! Sam is from Belgium. Theophile is from Switzerland. Nini is from Chicago. All three are traveling independently and had very interesting stories. The house felt more like a hostel than a private residence. Shihlong made us pumpkin noodles with tofu and cut up some fruit. It was a wonderful evening spent discussing our travels.

Recommendations for Taitung:

I personally like the hot spring resorts north of Taipei better. The Beitou hot springs definitely have a stronger sulfur scent, so if that bothers you skip them. The Chihpen hot springs are out of the way and your time would probably be better spent hiking one of the trails near Taitung. Thus, before arriving do some research and select a trail and a form of transit. I think the best way to do the east coast of Taiwan is by scooter or car.

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Day Eighteen- Taitung

9/24/2014

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Most of the day was dedicated to transit. Our host was at work, but luckily a week ago he gained a roommate, Mr. Stefano. We rang the bell and a very Italian man approached the door in his underwear. He had been practicing his singing and was quite surprised by our arrival. He was kind and offered us food, as he stated the food didn’t belong to him. He too had been a couchsurfer at Shihlung’s house. For the past several years he has been floating around Asia. He goes to a country and rents a room for a month and then moves on to a new location. Two or three times a year he goes to Japan for opera performances. The rest of the time his income comes from translating documents into Italian or from giving singing lessons. To say the least he is a character. There must be a genetic marker that most Italian men inherit that lead them to be incurable flirts. Apparently, of late he has been set loose on the local female population and has made many “friends”. Regardless, his company was enjoyable and he was very amusing. Speaking with him reminded me of how much I love Italy, even with all its quirks.

Shihlung is a Buddhist, but as he puts it, “I am a normal guy. I eat meat.” So he laughed when he discovered that out of his four guests three were vegetarian. Thus, he redirected us to a vegetarian restaurant instead of the famous beef noodle place he had intended to take us. Shihlung explained to us several different strands of Buddhism and told us about his work. He works at the only Museum of Prehistory in Taiwan. Stefano said that he thinks Shihlung is the most cultured person in Taitung and he is probably right. Shihlung’s home is absolutely beautiful. It is three stories and is filled with Buddhist artwork. He is also an excellent cook! He has taken classes in Japanese, Taiwanese, and Italian cooking. He has traveled to many countries, but most of his trips seem to have been to Japan. Luckily for me my next stop is Japan. He shared a lot of information with me and is thinking about joining me in the spring when I go back for the cherry blossoms.

After dinner we drove to a very unique tea house up in the hills above Taitung. The owner has many displays of aboriginal art and tools. We all enjoyed light conversation and explored the premises. Stefano and I spent some time discussing some differences between American and European cultures. He asked me if Americans think that European men are weak or feminine. I had never heard of that stereotype and commented that we really need more interaction with one another. It seems there are many strange misconceptions between cultures.

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    Hi, I'm Kristin!

    I am an avid traveler who also loves photography, history, and food. Life is short and I am trying to gather as many special memories as I can.

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