Melaka (or Malacca before colonization) was originally founded by a Malay Sultan from Indonesia. It was often threatened by its neighbors, but fortunately gained the protection of Ming Dynasty China. China realized the trade significance of Melaka, which provided rest to the famous Chinese diplomat and tradesmen, Zheng He, during his seven expeditions. If you have interest in learning about Zheng He, I greatly recommend reading the book 1421 and visiting the Zheng He Cultural Museum. The museum was a pleasant surprise and depicted Zheng He’s life in a way that is interesting for the history buff and child alike.
The protection from the Chinese gave a strong sense of safety to traders in the region. At that time piracy was very common and Melaka was considerably more stable than other trade hubs in the region. Melaka quickly became a center of trade and a safe haven along the traditional trade route from China to India and beyond. During the long period of European imperialism, Melaka came to be under Portuguese rule, Dutch rule, and British rule.
The Portuguese capitalized on Melaka’s strategic location on the straits of Malacca and greatly fortified the city. Unfortunately, the centuries have only left behind one gate of the Portuguese great fort. After around a hundred years of being under the Portuguese, the Dutch took over in 1641. The Dutch wanted to expand their control of the East Indies. Controlling the Strait of Malacca greatly enhanced their hold on Sumatra as well. The colonial buildings that still stand today are predominately Dutch. There is a Dutch church on the top of the hill in the middle of town, the famous red Dutch Square was home to many of the administrative buildings of the VOC government, and since its declaration as a World Heritage Site many original shop houses have been preserved. The tourist information center across from Dutch Square provides free tours on certain days of the week.
In the early 1800’s the Dutch and the British had a paper war for ten years over the ownership of Melaka and Singapore (More on this in my Singapore post). In the end both countries agreed to a trade. Britain would take Melaka and Singapore and the Dutch could have the British controlled part of Sumatra. It was a win for both countries. Melaka under the British didn’t experience the massive changes it did under the Dutch, but they still left behind their mark. For example, the famous Dutch Square was not originally red. The British for some reason decided to paint this sector of the city a dark crimson red. Some say it is because the buildings’ white walls were splattered with beetle nut chewers spit (like chewing tobacco which comes out a dark red color). Others think that the British thought red was a Dutch color. Tim, the Dutchman, says that red isn’t a thing in the Netherlands. Our other guess is that the governor’s friend owned a paint shop and red was a more expensive color. Regardless of the reasoning the square now takes its name from the color. During WWII the city fell along with the rest of the region into Japanese hands and greatly suffered from a lack of food. With the end of the war, the European powers began to lose their grasp on the region and in 1957 Malaysia declared independence.
During your time in Melaka, make a trip to the Baba-Nyonya Heritage House Museum. The Baba-Nyonya are a fascinating race. They are the descendants of Chinese men who settled in Malaysia for business and local Malay women. After this first union, all subsequent generations could not marry Chinese or Malay people. They had to marry fellow Baba-Nyonyas. This preserved their unique cultural heritage of Malay dress, Chinese family structure, and their own language. The Baba-Nyonya (Baba is for males and Nyonya is for females) tended to be very wealthy and often were in the spice trade. The Heritage House is a perfectly preserved example of one of these wealthy family's home. The house has a distinct Chinese influence (rich wood furniture with inlaid pearl) with European accents (such as Victorian tiles from England). The best part was the tour guide going into detail about the Baba-Nyonya traditions.
The city has done a nice job of preserving its historical core and has an easy going feel to it. One can spend hours strolling along its waterway and just taking in the views of St. Xavier’s church and the wall art that now decorates the length of many buildings standing guard on Melaka’s old trade route. It was on this waterway that on my last evening I met some very interesting people. I strolled past a couple enjoying a beer and they inquired whether or not I was Australian. They were amusing themselves with a game of guess the nationality. This led to an hour chat as day turned to dusk and candles were lit at the many restaurants overlooking the water. One was a marine biologist from Belgium and the other a marine biologist from Portugal. He studies the excrement of plankton and she studies oysters. I personally wish my profession somehow involved poop. It would sure make for a good ice-breakerJ. While I enjoyed their company, a familiar face walked by. A very friendly Australian I had shared a cab with in George Town. What are the odds! Travel in SE Asia makes the world feel small at times.
My personal experience in Melaka was greatly enhanced by the people I met. The owners of Bikini Toppings were delightful to chat with and made delicious coconut desserts. The Indonesian family who gave me a ride back from the floating mosque were so giving and kind. There were also two English teachers (living in Japan) who I spent a day with. One is from the UK and the other ironically is from Portland. We also spent time with a funny German named Patrick. I truly believe the best part of travel is the people you meet!
The most significant experience I had in Malaysia was joining in a Hindu parade and festival. The feeling of joy was so palpable in the air that it just made me smile. People were dancing in the streets with abandon and flung their arms around strangers as if they were friends. The priests were handing out blessed fruit and throwing packs of nuts and crackers out into the crowd. I spoke with several of the revelers and priests. They explained that the festival was a means by which Krishna could come out of the temple once a year to be among the people. I have a deep seated respect for Hinduism and my night amongst its followers made me want to learn more.
I would like to close this blog by reflecting on the rich diversity of not only Melaka, but the Malaysian Peninsula. I approached many people over the last two weeks and asked if I could take their photos. My hope was to show the beautiful blend of races present in this region. I hope that the next generation will be able to learn from peaceful places like Malaysia where all colors and religions are able to be tranquil neighbors. The world stage is currently consumed by conflict, hate, and misunderstanding. In the end regardless of which god you believe in and the color of your skin, we are all innately equal and in pursuit of happiness.
The protection from the Chinese gave a strong sense of safety to traders in the region. At that time piracy was very common and Melaka was considerably more stable than other trade hubs in the region. Melaka quickly became a center of trade and a safe haven along the traditional trade route from China to India and beyond. During the long period of European imperialism, Melaka came to be under Portuguese rule, Dutch rule, and British rule.
The Portuguese capitalized on Melaka’s strategic location on the straits of Malacca and greatly fortified the city. Unfortunately, the centuries have only left behind one gate of the Portuguese great fort. After around a hundred years of being under the Portuguese, the Dutch took over in 1641. The Dutch wanted to expand their control of the East Indies. Controlling the Strait of Malacca greatly enhanced their hold on Sumatra as well. The colonial buildings that still stand today are predominately Dutch. There is a Dutch church on the top of the hill in the middle of town, the famous red Dutch Square was home to many of the administrative buildings of the VOC government, and since its declaration as a World Heritage Site many original shop houses have been preserved. The tourist information center across from Dutch Square provides free tours on certain days of the week.
In the early 1800’s the Dutch and the British had a paper war for ten years over the ownership of Melaka and Singapore (More on this in my Singapore post). In the end both countries agreed to a trade. Britain would take Melaka and Singapore and the Dutch could have the British controlled part of Sumatra. It was a win for both countries. Melaka under the British didn’t experience the massive changes it did under the Dutch, but they still left behind their mark. For example, the famous Dutch Square was not originally red. The British for some reason decided to paint this sector of the city a dark crimson red. Some say it is because the buildings’ white walls were splattered with beetle nut chewers spit (like chewing tobacco which comes out a dark red color). Others think that the British thought red was a Dutch color. Tim, the Dutchman, says that red isn’t a thing in the Netherlands. Our other guess is that the governor’s friend owned a paint shop and red was a more expensive color. Regardless of the reasoning the square now takes its name from the color. During WWII the city fell along with the rest of the region into Japanese hands and greatly suffered from a lack of food. With the end of the war, the European powers began to lose their grasp on the region and in 1957 Malaysia declared independence.
During your time in Melaka, make a trip to the Baba-Nyonya Heritage House Museum. The Baba-Nyonya are a fascinating race. They are the descendants of Chinese men who settled in Malaysia for business and local Malay women. After this first union, all subsequent generations could not marry Chinese or Malay people. They had to marry fellow Baba-Nyonyas. This preserved their unique cultural heritage of Malay dress, Chinese family structure, and their own language. The Baba-Nyonya (Baba is for males and Nyonya is for females) tended to be very wealthy and often were in the spice trade. The Heritage House is a perfectly preserved example of one of these wealthy family's home. The house has a distinct Chinese influence (rich wood furniture with inlaid pearl) with European accents (such as Victorian tiles from England). The best part was the tour guide going into detail about the Baba-Nyonya traditions.
The city has done a nice job of preserving its historical core and has an easy going feel to it. One can spend hours strolling along its waterway and just taking in the views of St. Xavier’s church and the wall art that now decorates the length of many buildings standing guard on Melaka’s old trade route. It was on this waterway that on my last evening I met some very interesting people. I strolled past a couple enjoying a beer and they inquired whether or not I was Australian. They were amusing themselves with a game of guess the nationality. This led to an hour chat as day turned to dusk and candles were lit at the many restaurants overlooking the water. One was a marine biologist from Belgium and the other a marine biologist from Portugal. He studies the excrement of plankton and she studies oysters. I personally wish my profession somehow involved poop. It would sure make for a good ice-breakerJ. While I enjoyed their company, a familiar face walked by. A very friendly Australian I had shared a cab with in George Town. What are the odds! Travel in SE Asia makes the world feel small at times.
My personal experience in Melaka was greatly enhanced by the people I met. The owners of Bikini Toppings were delightful to chat with and made delicious coconut desserts. The Indonesian family who gave me a ride back from the floating mosque were so giving and kind. There were also two English teachers (living in Japan) who I spent a day with. One is from the UK and the other ironically is from Portland. We also spent time with a funny German named Patrick. I truly believe the best part of travel is the people you meet!
The most significant experience I had in Malaysia was joining in a Hindu parade and festival. The feeling of joy was so palpable in the air that it just made me smile. People were dancing in the streets with abandon and flung their arms around strangers as if they were friends. The priests were handing out blessed fruit and throwing packs of nuts and crackers out into the crowd. I spoke with several of the revelers and priests. They explained that the festival was a means by which Krishna could come out of the temple once a year to be among the people. I have a deep seated respect for Hinduism and my night amongst its followers made me want to learn more.
I would like to close this blog by reflecting on the rich diversity of not only Melaka, but the Malaysian Peninsula. I approached many people over the last two weeks and asked if I could take their photos. My hope was to show the beautiful blend of races present in this region. I hope that the next generation will be able to learn from peaceful places like Malaysia where all colors and religions are able to be tranquil neighbors. The world stage is currently consumed by conflict, hate, and misunderstanding. In the end regardless of which god you believe in and the color of your skin, we are all innately equal and in pursuit of happiness.
