Not to harp on our poor fortune, but let me make sure you understand that the ride from Mae Hong Son to Pai is very very very curvy. Within minutes of the engine starting we were already into the curves. The woman sitting in front of me began to heave and the air was heavy with the sour scent of vomit. I was feeling uneasy and then I realized Tim was also feeling uncomfortable. If he is feeling uncomfortable, you know there is a problem. Out of the group I tend to be the most paranoid and concerned, while Tim is the one most open to food of questionable sanitation and general risk taking. We later agreed that the drive reminded us both of our crazy taxi trip up Alishan on day 1 of the trip. Tim’s first comment once in Pai was, “Does that driver want to die prematurely?” I think the answer is a definitive yes. At least the three hour drive only took two. That is what happens when you drive 80 + kph.
As for our transit out of Pai it just didn’t want to happen. The day before we had gone to the bus station to figure out our options. We could take a local bus for 80 Baht at noon or sign up for the hourly minivan departures for 150. We knew we didn’t want another minivan experience, so we decided on the local bus. One big difference is that you can’t reserve a seat on the local bus, so it is first come first serve. We were at the station excruciatingly early. Noon came and went with no signs of the local bus. When it did roll into town at 1:00 pm, it was already bursting at the seams with people. A frantic Belgian then informed us that all the minivans were full for the rest of the day. I made a mad dash to see if any other tourists would be interested in splitting a van taxi. In order to go anywhere else you have to go through Chiang Mai and EVERYONE was heading out of town to catch the full moon parties in the south of the country. Of course we had to be leaving a party town on the same day that all the party goers were heading out of town for yet another party town. Go figure.
So we said good bye to the two Germans we had been speaking with for they opted to stand on the local bus for five hours. In these situations I would define myself as a flash packer and not a backpacker. A flash packer is willing to spend a little more cash for certain basic comforts. This is one of them. I was able to get two lovely French women, the frazzled Belgian, and the three of us all loaded up in a minivan for 416 per person. The van could have fit three more people and we tried to get the driver to accept two more Belgians who had a flight out of Chiang Mai that night. For some odd reason, he refused. The drive was smooth and we actually passed a minivan accident on the side of the road. Perhaps the powers that be charged us an extra 300 Baht to keep us out of harm’s way.
Be prepared when traveling on the Mae Hong Son Loop and try to make it to Myanmar. It is the true new frontier.
As for our transit out of Pai it just didn’t want to happen. The day before we had gone to the bus station to figure out our options. We could take a local bus for 80 Baht at noon or sign up for the hourly minivan departures for 150. We knew we didn’t want another minivan experience, so we decided on the local bus. One big difference is that you can’t reserve a seat on the local bus, so it is first come first serve. We were at the station excruciatingly early. Noon came and went with no signs of the local bus. When it did roll into town at 1:00 pm, it was already bursting at the seams with people. A frantic Belgian then informed us that all the minivans were full for the rest of the day. I made a mad dash to see if any other tourists would be interested in splitting a van taxi. In order to go anywhere else you have to go through Chiang Mai and EVERYONE was heading out of town to catch the full moon parties in the south of the country. Of course we had to be leaving a party town on the same day that all the party goers were heading out of town for yet another party town. Go figure.
So we said good bye to the two Germans we had been speaking with for they opted to stand on the local bus for five hours. In these situations I would define myself as a flash packer and not a backpacker. A flash packer is willing to spend a little more cash for certain basic comforts. This is one of them. I was able to get two lovely French women, the frazzled Belgian, and the three of us all loaded up in a minivan for 416 per person. The van could have fit three more people and we tried to get the driver to accept two more Belgians who had a flight out of Chiang Mai that night. For some odd reason, he refused. The drive was smooth and we actually passed a minivan accident on the side of the road. Perhaps the powers that be charged us an extra 300 Baht to keep us out of harm’s way.
Be prepared when traveling on the Mae Hong Son Loop and try to make it to Myanmar. It is the true new frontier.
