We took an early train to Fukui, left our belongings in a locker, and jumped on a bus heading to the hills. After a 30 minute bus ride we were dropped off in front of the Eiheiji Temple. This was by far my favorite thing thus far in the entire trip. Many people skip it due to its hard to get to location, but that is a huge mistake. If you are in Japan, pay the money to get here!
The temple was built in 1244 and is the headquarters for Soto Zen Buddhism in Japan. Practitioners of Soto Zen Buddhism strive for enlightenment through extended periods of meditation out in nature and away from civilization. It has been the most active meditation retreat in the country since the 1500’s. If you aren’t coming for a retreat, at least make a reservation to dine with the monks. This must be made two weeks in advance. Otherwise, there is a rather famous vegetarian restaurant down the street from the temple that costs 16 USD per person. Keep in mind that most Buddhists in Japan are not vegetarian so this temple is special in that regard. Another interesting aspect of this temple is its strict lifestyle. All trainees are given only 1 tatami mat from which they must eat, meditate (zazen), and sleep. These mats are small measuring only 1 by 2 meters!
The complex is made up of over 14 buildings, but there are really only 7 main buildings you must visit. Plan on spending some serious time here. After you check out the temple, don’t follow the crowds out towards the street. Turn left and walk along the creek. You will come to a path that leads up a hill. The sign says it takes about 15 minutes. Honestly, it probably takes a bit longer. It is a steep climb, but from the top you can take aerial views of the temple. It is for sure worth it! Once back down to the creek, continue away from the temple and you will find a Buddhist cemetery. The statues are covered in moss and the peaceful sound of running water makes this a tranquil place to take in nature and the overall feel of area. If you can make it here while the fall leaves are changing, you have scored! I planned my trip to coincide with the maple leaves changing and ended up here 2 weeks too early. Oh well, it was still beautiful!
As I walked up the path, I felt elated that I had found that magical place you imagine Japan to be like. The path is enclosed by tall overhanging trees. The afternoon light pierces through their green leaves and gives the area an ethereal atmosphere. A small hill runs the length of the path upon which a Buddha statue resides. She calmly watches over the moss covered hill. At the end of the path the scene fits perfectly into my memories of the elvish domain in Lord of the Rings or even Azeroth for those of you who are gamers J. All the buildings are made of strong light brown wood in traditional Japanese style and yet possess an almost Nordic appearance. My favorite spot was from just in front of the temple. There is a small pond with a statue of a Buddha crouched in a leaf next to a large Toad statue. Behind it is a wooden three-tiered pagoda, two lanterns, and a long staircase that leads to one of the temples many buildings. The temple complex is built in tiers that slowly climb the hill. Exploring this awe inspiring temple was by far one of my favorite travel moments of all time.
The day had a perfect ending with my host Midori. She picked me up from the train station and I helped her cut vegetables for a soup. We ate and watched her 1 year old son crawl around and eat bread. She and her husband live with her friend Miho and her husband. Miho has a 1 year old daughter who is 18 days older than Midori's son. I was so moved by the dedication of these mothers. They spoke of the special techniques they are using to teach their kids and that one of the main reasons they host couchsurfers is so that the kids are exposed to English. Midori is a teacher and Miho works for a non-profit organization that plans volunteering events for both Japanese citizens and foreigners. Ironically enough the two friends met through volunteering and then they both met their husbands through the same organization. You can tell that social action is very important to all of them. Midori is an incredibly talented artist and she sells postcards. Of course I couldn't pass up the opportunity to expand my postcard collection.
Check back in three days or so. I will be renting a car and driving through the rural area near Mt. Fuji and thus may not have great access to the internet. Best of luck until then!
The temple was built in 1244 and is the headquarters for Soto Zen Buddhism in Japan. Practitioners of Soto Zen Buddhism strive for enlightenment through extended periods of meditation out in nature and away from civilization. It has been the most active meditation retreat in the country since the 1500’s. If you aren’t coming for a retreat, at least make a reservation to dine with the monks. This must be made two weeks in advance. Otherwise, there is a rather famous vegetarian restaurant down the street from the temple that costs 16 USD per person. Keep in mind that most Buddhists in Japan are not vegetarian so this temple is special in that regard. Another interesting aspect of this temple is its strict lifestyle. All trainees are given only 1 tatami mat from which they must eat, meditate (zazen), and sleep. These mats are small measuring only 1 by 2 meters!
The complex is made up of over 14 buildings, but there are really only 7 main buildings you must visit. Plan on spending some serious time here. After you check out the temple, don’t follow the crowds out towards the street. Turn left and walk along the creek. You will come to a path that leads up a hill. The sign says it takes about 15 minutes. Honestly, it probably takes a bit longer. It is a steep climb, but from the top you can take aerial views of the temple. It is for sure worth it! Once back down to the creek, continue away from the temple and you will find a Buddhist cemetery. The statues are covered in moss and the peaceful sound of running water makes this a tranquil place to take in nature and the overall feel of area. If you can make it here while the fall leaves are changing, you have scored! I planned my trip to coincide with the maple leaves changing and ended up here 2 weeks too early. Oh well, it was still beautiful!
As I walked up the path, I felt elated that I had found that magical place you imagine Japan to be like. The path is enclosed by tall overhanging trees. The afternoon light pierces through their green leaves and gives the area an ethereal atmosphere. A small hill runs the length of the path upon which a Buddha statue resides. She calmly watches over the moss covered hill. At the end of the path the scene fits perfectly into my memories of the elvish domain in Lord of the Rings or even Azeroth for those of you who are gamers J. All the buildings are made of strong light brown wood in traditional Japanese style and yet possess an almost Nordic appearance. My favorite spot was from just in front of the temple. There is a small pond with a statue of a Buddha crouched in a leaf next to a large Toad statue. Behind it is a wooden three-tiered pagoda, two lanterns, and a long staircase that leads to one of the temples many buildings. The temple complex is built in tiers that slowly climb the hill. Exploring this awe inspiring temple was by far one of my favorite travel moments of all time.
The day had a perfect ending with my host Midori. She picked me up from the train station and I helped her cut vegetables for a soup. We ate and watched her 1 year old son crawl around and eat bread. She and her husband live with her friend Miho and her husband. Miho has a 1 year old daughter who is 18 days older than Midori's son. I was so moved by the dedication of these mothers. They spoke of the special techniques they are using to teach their kids and that one of the main reasons they host couchsurfers is so that the kids are exposed to English. Midori is a teacher and Miho works for a non-profit organization that plans volunteering events for both Japanese citizens and foreigners. Ironically enough the two friends met through volunteering and then they both met their husbands through the same organization. You can tell that social action is very important to all of them. Midori is an incredibly talented artist and she sells postcards. Of course I couldn't pass up the opportunity to expand my postcard collection.
Check back in three days or so. I will be renting a car and driving through the rural area near Mt. Fuji and thus may not have great access to the internet. Best of luck until then!
